The city of Xiamen, with its colonial-era architecture, vibrant seaside promenades, and the poetic allure of Gulangyu Island, has long been a jewel of China's southeast coast. Tourists flock to its winding lanes for sha cha noodles, to watch the sunset over the Taiwan Strait, and to lose themselves in the subtropical greenery. But for a growing number of discerning travelers, the true soul of Xiamen isn't found on a map—it's steeped in a small, handleless cup. I'm here to explore a deeper, more immersive travel experience: the pursuit of competition-grade Xiamen oolong teas, a journey that engages all the senses and connects you to the ancient heart of Fujian province.
Walk into any charming Xiamen teahouse, and you'll be welcomed with a pot of fragrant tea, likely a smooth Tieguanyin or a robust Dahongpao. It's a delightful introduction. But the world of competition-grade oolongs is a different universe altogether. These are not commodities; they are artworks, the result of a perfect, often unrepeatable, alignment of terroir, cultivar, craftsmanship, and season.
Imagine a tea not judged by its packaging or brand, but by a panel of severe, experienced masters in a blind tasting. They evaluate on aroma, liquor color, taste, mouthfeel, and the appearance of the spent leaves. The tea must be flawless. No off-notes, no imperfections. The fragrance must be complex and lingering—often described with poetic terms like "orchid," "honey orchid," "mineral," or "roasted chestnut." The taste must be profoundly layered, evolving with each sip, and finishing with a captivating, sweet aftertaste known as hui gan. This is the standard. For travelers, seeking out these teas transforms a simple drink into a cultural deep dive, a tasting tour as focused and rewarding as visiting a gallery of master paintings.
While Xiamen itself is a port city, it is the undisputed gateway and tasting room for the legendary oolong-growing regions just to the north and west. The most famous, of course, is Anxi, the birthplace of Tieguanyin.
Competition-grade Tieguanyin is a revelation. Forget the heavily roasted, dark versions common abroad. The highest echelons today celebrate a "traditional" or "clear fragrance" style. The dry leaves are emerald green, tightly coiled like pearls. The brewing unleashes an explosive, floral aroma so potent it feels like walking into a dew-covered garden. The taste is creamy, nuanced, with a captivating viscosity. The hui gan is unmistakably sweet, lingering in the throat for minutes. Tasting this in Xiamen, perhaps in a quiet studio overlooking the sea, you taste the essence of Fujian's misty mountains.
While Anxi is close, Xiamen's tea merchants also hold treasures from the farther north: the rock teas (yan cha) of the Wuyi Mountains. A competition-grade Dahongpao or Shui Xian is a more robust, philosophical experience. The aroma is of toasted grains, minerals, and dark stone fruit. The flavor is powerful, roasted yet sweet, with a profound "rock bone" (yan gu) character said to come from the unique mineral-rich soil. It’s a taste of ancient cliffs and gorges, perfectly complementing Xiamen's own historical narrative.
How does one embark on this tasting journey? It's an adventure that takes you off the standard tourist path.
Skip the souvenir shops. The real hubs are unassuming shops and studios, often in the older parts of town or in artsy districts like Shapowei. Here, owners are often connoisseurs or even competition judges. The key is to express sincere interest. Use phrases like "I wish to understand gao shan cha (high mountain tea)" or "I'm curious about the difference between competition grade and commercial grade." A genuine inquiry often leads to an invitation to sit and compare. They may bring out small canisters, each holding a tea that placed in a regional sai (competition). The comparison tasting is the ultimate education.
Tasting these teas is never rushed. You will witness gongfu cha, the meticulous brewing ritual. A small Yixing clay pot or a Gaiwan is used with a large volume of leaves. The brews are quick, mere seconds, poured into a pitcher and then into tall, narrow aroma cups and tasting cups. You first inhale the scent from the empty aroma cup, then sip from the tasting cup. Over multiple infusions—sometimes ten or more—you'll chart the tea's journey: the awakening, the peak, the gentle decline. This ritual, performed in a Xiamen tea studio, is a moment of profound calm and focus, a counterpoint to the bustling city outside.
A taste of competition-grade tea inevitably sparks a desire to see its origin. This is where Xiamen's role as a tourism hub shines. From here, you can easily arrange trips to the sacred tea grounds.
A day trip or overnight to Anxi County is now a fantastic tourism fusion. You can visit terraced tea gardens clinging to fog-shrouded slopes, meet farmers who are custodians of centuries-old techniques, and even try your hand at picking. Seeing the labor—the precise plucking of "two leaves and a bud"—makes you appreciate each sip infinitely more. Many farms now offer immersive homestays, where you wake up in the clouds surrounded by the tea bushes that produce the nectar in your cup.
Forget keychains. The ultimate souvenir from Xiamen is a small quantity of competition-grade tea, purchased directly from a trusted merchant. It will be packaged simply, often in vacuum-sealed bags with labels noting its origin, harvest season (Spring Chun cha is most prized), and competition award. This isn't just a product; it's a bottled memory of a place, a person, and a moment of sensory enlightenment. Every time you brew it at home, it will transport you back to that quiet studio, the sound of the pouring water, and the unfolding aroma of Xiamen's most refined landscape.
The modern traveler seeks connection and authenticity. In the pursuit of competition-grade Xiamen oolongs, you find both. You connect with a craft that defines a region, with people whose expertise is awe-inspiring, and with a landscape that imparts its unique character into a leaf. You move from being a spectator to a participant in a living culture. So, on your next visit to Xiamen, venture beyond the beach and the boutiques. Seek out the small cups and the big flavors. Let the journey of taste guide you to the very essence of this captivating corner of the world, one profound, aromatic infusion at a time.
Copyright Statement:
Author: Xiamen Travel
Link: https://xiamentravel.github.io/travel-blog/tasting-competitiongrade-xiamen-oolong-teas.htm
Source: Xiamen Travel
The copyright of this article belongs to the author. Reproduction is not allowed without permission.