The allure of Xiamen is undeniable. Visitors flock to the winding lanes of Gulangyu, the serene Nanputuo Temple, and the vibrant street food stalls along Zhongshan Road. Yet, beyond the Instagrammable sunsets and the soothing sea breeze, lies a deeper, more resonant heartbeat of the city—a rhythm traced not with footsteps, but with brushstrokes. For the discerning traveler, engaging with Xiamen’s profound calligraphy culture isn't just an activity; it's a transformative portal into the soul of Chinese aesthetics and philosophy. This ancient art form, known as Shufa, is everywhere if you know where to look: from the poetic couplets flanking temple doors to the weathered stone inscriptions on Wanshi Botanical Garden’s boulders. For first-timers, dipping a brush into this rich inkwell of tradition can be the most memorable souvenir of your trip. Here is your essential guide to beginning your calligraphy journey in the "Garden on the Sea."
Before you even touch a brush, pause to appreciate. Calligraphy in China is not mere handwriting; it is a disciplined art form, a meditation, and an expression of one's character. In Xiamen, this spirit is palpable. As you wander, start to see the city as a living scroll.
Your first tip is to become an observer. Visit the Xiamen Calligraphy Square on Hubin Middle Road—an open-air gallery where giant stone carvings display powerful characters. At Nanputuo Temple, study the elegant scripts on pillars and plaques, often containing Buddhist wisdom. The Xiamen Museum and the Overseas Chinese Museum house precious historical scrolls. Even the names of shops and teahouses are often rendered in beautiful, stylized scripts. Let these public artworks be your first teachers, showing you the flow, balance, and dynamism you will later try to capture.
Every stroke in calligraphy carries intention. The solid, horizontal line embodies stability; the sharp, descending dot conveys energy; the sweeping curve suggests fluidity and grace. Understanding this helps you see why the art is so revered. It’s a physical manifestation of concepts like harmony (hexie) and energy flow (qì). When you later practice, you’re not just drawing a character; you’re learning to channel these principles through your arm and onto the paper.
Now that your mind is attuned, it’s time for hands-on experience. Fortunately, Xiamen is a wonderfully accessible place for beginners to try.
Skip the generic tourist traps. Look for authentic experiences: * Cultural Centers & Studios: Search for small studios in the Shapowei art district or near Xiamen University. These are often run by local artists. * Hotel Cultural Programs: Many high-end hotels (like The Mandarin Oriental or Pan Pacific) offer curated calligraphy sessions for guests. * University Outreach: Xiamen University's art department sometimes hosts public workshops. Inquire locally. * Platforms like Viator or Klook: Search for "Xiamen calligraphy class" – read reviews carefully to find a well-regarded, authentic master.
A good introductory workshop (2-3 hours) should provide all materials and focus on 1-2 fundamental characters, like yong (永, meaning "forever"), which contains the eight basic strokes.
The tools are called the Wen Fang Si Bao: Brush (bi), Ink (mo), Paper (zhi), and Inkstone (yan). * Brush: As a beginner, you’ll likely use a medium-sized, soft-haired brush. Hold it vertically, perpendicular to the paper, with a relaxed but firm grip. * Ink: Modern convenience comes in bottled liquid ink—perfect for beginners. The traditional method of grinding an ink stick on an inkstone is a meditative ritual you might experience in a longer class. * Paper: You’ll start on cheap, absorbent practice paper (maobianzhi). Its yellow grids help with character proportion. For a final piece, xuan paper is used. * Inkstone & Other Accessories: A felt pad under your paper, a paperweight, and a dish for your ink.
Posture is everything. Sit or stand with a straight back, shoulders relaxed. Your non-dominant hand steadies the paper. Now, for the most fundamental stroke: the heng (horizontal line). 1. Press: Start with the tip of the brush at a 45-degree angle to the paper. Press down slightly. 2. Pause & Move: Pause to create a solid beginning, then move the brush steadily to the right, maintaining even pressure. 3. Lift & Press Again: As you near the end, press down slightly again. 4. Close: Finally, lift the brush to a point to create a clean, sharp ending.
It sounds simple, but achieving a balanced, energetic horizontal line can take an hour of practice. Embrace the repetition. There is no "undo" button in calligraphy; each mark is a lesson.
Integrate your new-found appreciation into the rest of your travels, making your entire trip a cultural immersion.
Forgo the mass-produced trinkets. Invest in beautiful, usable calligraphy items from shops around Zhongshan Road or cultural markets. * A Set of Brushes: Packaged in bamboo tubes, they make a fantastic gift. * Decorative Ink Sticks: Carved with dragons or landscapes, they are artworks themselves. * Seal (Yinzhang): Have your name translated phonetically into Chinese and carved onto a personal stone seal. You can find skilled seal carvers in cultural markets—this is the ultimate personalized souvenir. * A Small Scroll: Purchase a pre-made scroll with a character like fu (福, good fortune) or he (和, peace).
Structure a day around this art: * Morning: Visit Nanputuo Temple, observing the inscriptions with a new, knowledgeable eye. * Late Morning: Take a 2-hour beginner’s calligraphy workshop in the Shapowei district. * Lunch: Enjoy a quiet tea at a traditional chaguan (teahouse), whose name is likely written in beautiful calligraphy. * Afternoon: Browse the Xiamen Calligraphy Square and then shop for supplies and souvenirs on nearby streets. * Evening: Reflect on your practice over a delicate Minnan cuisine dinner. You’ve earned it.
Your success will not be measured by perfection, but by participation.
Your first characters will be wobbly, blotchy, and unbalanced. This is expected and absolutely okay. Chinese calligraphy masters practice daily for decades. The goal is not flawless execution but mindful engagement. Each "mistake" teaches you about pressure, speed, and flow.
Focus on your breathing. Inhale as you prepare the stroke, exhale slowly as you execute it. Let the chatter of your tourist itinerary—the next destination, the must-try food—fade away. In this moment, there is only you, the brush, and the emerging black line on white paper. This mindful state is the true gift of the practice.
Even if you only master one character, have the teacher write it beautifully on a piece of xuan paper. Get it framed locally. That single character, earned through your own effort and purchased in the city that inspired you, will hold more meaning than any postcard. It is a direct imprint of your Xiamen experience.
The rhythm of Xiamen is a blend of lapping waves and whispering brushes. By choosing to engage with calligraphy, you move from being a spectator of culture to a participant, however humble. You carry forward a thread of an ancient tradition, and in doing so, you ensure that your connection to this beautiful coastal city is not just captured in photos, but etched in ink and remembered in the quiet, focused muscle memory of your own hand.
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Author: Xiamen Travel
Link: https://xiamentravel.github.io/travel-blog/xiamen-calligraphy-tips-for-firsttimers.htm
Source: Xiamen Travel
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