The morning sun casts a golden glow over Xiamen’s skyline as I board the early bus bound for the UNESCO-listed Fujian Tulou. These ancient earthen buildings, nestled in the lush mountains of Fujian province, have long been on my bucket list. Today, I’m trading the coastal breeze of Xiamen for the misty hills of Yongding and Nanjing counties, where history and culture intertwine in these architectural marvels.
Leaving Xiamen at 7 AM, the bus winds through rolling hills and terraced fields. The scenery shifts from urban sprawl to rural tranquility, with occasional glimpses of tea plantations and bamboo groves. The ride takes about 3 hours, but the anticipation makes time fly.
Arriving in Hongkeng Village, I’m immediately struck by the grandeur of the Zhencheng Lou, a circular tulou with a unique "Bagua" (Eight Trigrams) layout. Built in 1912, its ornate wooden carvings and symmetrical design are a testament to Hakka ingenuity. Walking through its concentric corridors, I imagine the bustling communal life of generations past.
Nearby, the Chengqi Lou, the "King of Tulou," dominates the landscape. With four concentric rings and over 400 rooms, it’s a fortress-like structure that once housed 80 families. Climbing to the upper floors, I peer into the central courtyard, where locals still dry crops and chat under the afternoon sun.
No visit to the tulou is complete without sampling Hakka cuisine. At a family-run eatery, I savor lei cha (pounded tea), a savory blend of tea leaves, herbs, and nuts, paired with taro dumplings and braised pork belly. The flavors are earthy and robust, mirroring the resilience of the Hakka people.
A short drive takes me to the Tianluokeng Tulou Cluster, famously nicknamed the "Four Dishes and One Soup" for its layout resembling a traditional meal. The view from the observation deck is breathtaking—five tulou (one square and four round) nestled amid emerald-green rice paddies.
Descending into the village, I wander through Yuchang Lou, the "Leaning Tower of Tulou." Its tilting wooden pillars, defying gravity for over 700 years, are a quirky highlight. The elderly resident who offers me a cup of oolong tea shares stories of earthquakes and repairs, her pride evident.
En route back to Xiamen, I make a detour to Yunshuiyao, a picturesque village straddling a crystal-clear stream. The 800-year-old banyan trees and stone pathways evoke a timeless charm. The Hegui Lou, a rectangular tulou, stands quietly by the water, its reflection shimmering at dusk.
As the bus pulls away, I glance back at the fading silhouette of the tulou. These earthen giants, born of communal spirit and survival, have shared their secrets for a day. The journey from Xiamen to Fujian Tulou isn’t just a trip—it’s a passage through living history.
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Author: Xiamen Travel
Link: https://xiamentravel.github.io/travel-blog/xiamen-to-fujian-tulou-a-day-of-discovery-2496.htm
Source: Xiamen Travel
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